How to reach
The ruins of the Castello dei Vescovi (literally “Castle of the Bishops”), also called "Torraccia," are found in the Berignone-Tatti forest, situated about eight linear miles south-southeast of Volterra. The easiest itinerary for reaching the isolated castle takes about half a day. From Volterra, follow the SS68 towards Castel S. Gimignano/Siena, and after about 5 km, turn right towards Mazzolla. Before you reach the town, take the unpaved road that curves to the left and then turn right at the first crossroad. Follow this road until you reach the Batazzone farm, and from there, take the sharp left that goes into the Fosci valley. Continue along this road until you reach the chain that blocks the road, where you will need to leave your car, and from where you need to go on foot or by mountain bike. After passing Capannone, you will reach the site of the ruins in about 45 minutes.
History
The castle, known as the “Fortress of Berignone” (from the name of the forest in which it is located, a large forest complex that even today still maintains its incredible natural beauty), “Castle of the Bishops” or simply “Torraccia”, is an important fortification south of Volterra on a rocky spur where the Rio canyon and the Sellate stream meet in the upper Cecina valley.
There is documentation of the castle already in the year 896, when Adalberto Marquis of Tuscany gifted it to Alboino, the Bishop of Volterra. Since then, it has been a fortress and also the residence of the Bishops of Volterra (hence its name), used for administering justice, for minting coins, but above all as a refuge during the long struggle against the Comune. More than once, the Bishops retreated in order to avoid retaliation, as they did after their victory in Benevento when they escaped to the fortress in order to avoid the assault of the Ghibellines.
In 1361, Berignone revolts against the Comune of Volterra, but is quickly brought back to order. In 1381, the inhabitants of Berignone themselves asked for Volterra’s help in defending the castle, now occupied by relatives of Simone dei Fagani di Reggio, Bishop of Volterra. Several skirmishes followed until peace was finally declared on February 5, 1382. In 1399, the castle was again occupied by the Sienese, and from this moment on, the fortress began its decline.
Today, only ruins remain to dominate this vast forest, populated by boar, deer, and birds of prey, but just by looking at these ruins one can imagine the architectural strength and elegance of these ancient buildings.
More info & notes
First 3 photos courtesy https://www.fototoscana.it/
All the others by Chiara Gracci